Great Smoky Mountains National Park not only has character but at times seems to produce a magical setting for natural and American cultural history. Cades Cove is a Southern Appalachian valley between Smoky Mountain ridges. This valley sits at elevation among the mountains and is gloriously isolated from what seems to be the whole rest of the world.
I visited the Great Smokey Mountains to attend the 2011 Association of Nature Center Administrators (ANCA) Annual Summit at the Great Smokey Mountains Institute at Tremont. The Institute is one of, if not the finest and most successful, outdoor and nature education residential camp programs in America. The campus is a few miles from, and lower in elevation than, Cades Cove. Because of the rich natural and cultural history of this magnificent park, the adventure begins at the Park entrance sign.
I arrived on Thursday night, and aside from spending time with friends and colleagues, the natural adventure began with the evening program. Our 125 members were being mesmerized by a local school teacher, Elizabeth Rose, who inspires her grade school students and our audience with wonderful story telling. Then something happened that could possibly trump her masterful performance.
As Ms. Rose was story telling there was a stir in the back of the pavilion by a few people in the back of the audience. Quietly some people began to peer into the darkness behind the pavilion. Curious, I moved to the back and after carefully looking into the dark brush I saw what was causing the stir. Ever so faintly in the shadows created by the lighted pavilion I could see a shape. Then I could see the very faint buffy face of a Black Bear just a few feet within the brush. It was surreal. It was a peaceful encounter, and in some strange way, it was as if a curious Smoky Mountain resident had settled in to see what all the commotion in the pavilion was about, or perhaps just a chance to enjoy the story unfolding from the speaker. The magic of the Smoky Mountains was at work.
Friday morning I got up at 5:00 am to get ready for birding Cades Cove. I walked down to the parking lot that was dimly lit by a half moon. There is no light distraction in the mountains and a bright planet Jupiter shined close to the moon. I got my spotting scope from my truck and used my 60x power to look at Jupiter and its three visible moons. Smoky Mountain star gazing is different too. It is enhanced by the sound of a gently flowing creek and Katydids. After a few minutes a Barred Owl began to call. Soon, at least three Eastern Screech-owls joined the chorus. The magic of the Smoky Mountains was clearly at work.
As it began to get light at the resident camp there was a blanket of fog filling the valley. It seems it just can't be morning. The fog adds another dimension to the sights and sounds of places in the mountains . The fog silenced the Katydids and the owls and it was an invitation to go up the mountain to Cades Cove.
As you make your way up the winding mountain road you travel through a changing climax forest that speaks to changing elevation. In a few places there are vistas, that on this morning, provided views that were true the name of the mountains.....it was "smoky". I stopped at a place that I liked once I got above the fog. It turned out I had found Crib Gap. This is the high point before the road drops down into Cades Cove.
It was quiet. Really quiet. I neither saw nor heard a single bird. So I pished and offered my verbal Screech-owl call. Slowly birds began to appear high in the trees. A Tufted Titmouse got excited and as I looked up the ridge I began to see movement. Warblers. A Black-throated Green Warbler appeared and then a Worm-eating Warbler and an Ovenbird. In the next 15 minutes I saw a Blackburnian Warbler, Pine Warbler, an adult and juvenile Cerulean Warbler, Black-and-white Warbler, Hooded Warbler, Yellow-throated and Blue-headed Vireos, Scarlet Tanager, Carolina Wren, and Red-breasted and White-breasted Nuthatches. This represented a mixed flock of birds feeding along the ridge line at the "Gap". These were birds from various elevations, not migrating, but foraging at this elevation in a post breeding disbursal.
Cades Cove is an 11 mile auto tour that winds around and through this Mountain Valley. I thought to myself that if there was any place in America where people were so isolated that they could have missed the entire Civil War, it would have been in this valley, cradled by the Smoky Mountains. In the 1850's there were 132 families living in Cades Cove. They farmed, built homes and churches, and were self sustaining farmers. Many buildings are historically preserved and interpreted. But whether you are a history buff or not, one can't escape the culturally-rich feeling of this place.
I found another 25 species of birds along the tour. Most birds were also in flocks, mainly feeding and active along the edges of the forest and in tree lines along fences throughout the valley. I stopped to look at a Pileated Woodpecker in a dead tree and was rewarded when an Olive-sided Flycatcher flew characteristically at the top of the dead tree. The Flycatcher had traveled much farther than I had, to visit this beautiful valley in the Smoky Mountains.
Wild Turkeys are a fixture of today's Cades cove. They are joined by White-tailed Deer who graze the same grasslands. I got a brief glimpse of another Black Bear along a creek where berries and roots are plentiful. It seems that there is something interesting and exciting virtually everywhere you go in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
That the natural and cultural history of the Great Smoky Mountains is preserved in the Park with the same name, is truly a national treasure. But more remarkable is that the National Park Service and The Great Smoky Mountains Institute at Tremont are teaching and interpreting thousands of school children and adults about our natural and cultural heritage. The discoveries here are endless. The possibilities to learn are limitless. The potential for enrichment is enormous.
Every Annual ANCA Summit is held in some special place similar to the Great Smokey Mountains. It isn't a choice really. These places are in the ANCA family DNA. ANCA member nature centers bring out the magic in places that aren't perhaps as isolated like Cades Cove but have their own magic none-the-less.
GRAND CANYON NATIONALPARK !
.......and Reflections
Monday, August 22, 2011
Monday, August 8, 2011
Shorebird Migration Marches On Through Early August
Shorebirds begin migrating through Northern Ohio beginning about July first. In fact there were significant Yellowlegs and other species moving at Lorain impoundment in the last week of June. These shorebirds and most neotropical migrants are mostly on the move in spring and fall but home is in the tropics or sub-tropics.
Their true home is where they winter. They travel to North America for one purpose: to raise a family and get back to where they call home.
Lorain impoundment is a small but important wetland that is attractive to shorebirds on the first leg of a very long and sometimes dangerous fall journey home. This small area is right on Lake Erie shores and provides a land and water feature shorebirds need for a usually brief, but important stopping place with cover and food.
By the time these adult and juvenile birds get to the impoundment they are in good physical condition and prepared to move south in monumental strides. So they are similar to runners in a marathon that stop for a drink or a cool wet down or a few seconds to rest and gather themselves for the journey ahead of them.
So the birds are moving in mass. As they do periodically some of them stop briefly before gathering themselves for the trip ahead. Some pass by with other destinations in mind. I spent about 4 hours at the impoundment and I watched birds arrive and depart on a pretty regular basis. Who stops depends on who is moving and whether the stop is worthy of their fixation on getting home. The few minutes or hours that the birds spend on here on their journey are critical for any trained athlete competing against their peers and the elements to return home.
In fact, these small, rather unappreciated little habitats are critical from the tundra to the Gulf Coast, Central and South America. It is a dilemma for us hominids that see our environment differently. We often value these places little when they are in fact precious to our natural heritage. The reality is that these places could and sometimes are the difference between life and death.
Today, I was birding with Steve Matherly from Houston, Texas. We were watching a White-rumped Sandpiper, an unusual fall shorebird migrant in its own right, when we both noticed a shorebird in the sparse vegetation encroaching on the wetland and retreating water in the August heat. It was a larger bird. There were two shorebirds that prefer the "weeds" to the mudflats and pools. The Buff-bellied Sandpiper was one possibility but this bird was too tall to be that rare shorebird. We quickly determined it was an Upland Sandpiper.
Upland Sandpipers are a rare nesting and endangered breeding species in Ohio's minuscule grassland and prairie habitats. This bird appears to be a juvenile who's origin is unknown, but probably not Ohio. For that reason this sighting is noteworthy as the Upland Sandpiper is a rare visitor in migration and more common in spring but rare in fall.
This bird was, as most migrants are, focused on food and security. It was not shy. It came within several feet of a growing entourage of birders responding to a posting of the bird's appearance on the Ohio Bird List Service provided by the Ohio Ornithological Society. The bird was oblivious to spotting scopes, binoculars and cameras. It stayed around from 8:45 am till at least later afternoon. Fortunately, many birders got a chance to see both the Upland Sandpiper and the White-rumped Sandpiper.
Birders begin as novice observers and with perseverance go through a transformation to better birders but also more appreciative of the world of birds and the incredible life histories of both the common birds but also for some of our mega travelers that log thousands of miles as they travel across the hemispheres.
I strongly encourage you to get "out there" and see for yourself these amazing travelers and when you do, try to imagine why seeing them in migration is both a blessing as well as an important lesson in natural history.
Their true home is where they winter. They travel to North America for one purpose: to raise a family and get back to where they call home.
Lorain impoundment is a small but important wetland that is attractive to shorebirds on the first leg of a very long and sometimes dangerous fall journey home. This small area is right on Lake Erie shores and provides a land and water feature shorebirds need for a usually brief, but important stopping place with cover and food.
By the time these adult and juvenile birds get to the impoundment they are in good physical condition and prepared to move south in monumental strides. So they are similar to runners in a marathon that stop for a drink or a cool wet down or a few seconds to rest and gather themselves for the journey ahead of them.
So the birds are moving in mass. As they do periodically some of them stop briefly before gathering themselves for the trip ahead. Some pass by with other destinations in mind. I spent about 4 hours at the impoundment and I watched birds arrive and depart on a pretty regular basis. Who stops depends on who is moving and whether the stop is worthy of their fixation on getting home. The few minutes or hours that the birds spend on here on their journey are critical for any trained athlete competing against their peers and the elements to return home.
In fact, these small, rather unappreciated little habitats are critical from the tundra to the Gulf Coast, Central and South America. It is a dilemma for us hominids that see our environment differently. We often value these places little when they are in fact precious to our natural heritage. The reality is that these places could and sometimes are the difference between life and death.
Today, I was birding with Steve Matherly from Houston, Texas. We were watching a White-rumped Sandpiper, an unusual fall shorebird migrant in its own right, when we both noticed a shorebird in the sparse vegetation encroaching on the wetland and retreating water in the August heat. It was a larger bird. There were two shorebirds that prefer the "weeds" to the mudflats and pools. The Buff-bellied Sandpiper was one possibility but this bird was too tall to be that rare shorebird. We quickly determined it was an Upland Sandpiper.
Upland Sandpipers are a rare nesting and endangered breeding species in Ohio's minuscule grassland and prairie habitats. This bird appears to be a juvenile who's origin is unknown, but probably not Ohio. For that reason this sighting is noteworthy as the Upland Sandpiper is a rare visitor in migration and more common in spring but rare in fall.
This bird was, as most migrants are, focused on food and security. It was not shy. It came within several feet of a growing entourage of birders responding to a posting of the bird's appearance on the Ohio Bird List Service provided by the Ohio Ornithological Society. The bird was oblivious to spotting scopes, binoculars and cameras. It stayed around from 8:45 am till at least later afternoon. Fortunately, many birders got a chance to see both the Upland Sandpiper and the White-rumped Sandpiper.
Birders begin as novice observers and with perseverance go through a transformation to better birders but also more appreciative of the world of birds and the incredible life histories of both the common birds but also for some of our mega travelers that log thousands of miles as they travel across the hemispheres.
I strongly encourage you to get "out there" and see for yourself these amazing travelers and when you do, try to imagine why seeing them in migration is both a blessing as well as an important lesson in natural history.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Birding the place, not just a targeted group of birds
Today is August 2nd and this is a significant date for birders although not one often celebrated. There is a lot of focus on the shorebirds that are making their way from the Tundra to destinations along the Gulf Coast, and Central and South America. And rightfully so, although we are far from the peak of shorebird migration in northern Ohio and elsewhere in North America. The changes to come are far broader than just peeps and plovers.
Lorain Impoundment, located in Lorain, Ohio is one of few habitats that will support shorebird migration in northern Ohio this year. It is situated adjacent to Lake Erie and is a wonderful opportunity for shorebirds to rest and feed along their epic journey to the places they will winter and prepare for the next trek to breed in the far northern hemisphere next spring.
The southern shore of Lake Erie is far more significant than just an attractive stopover for shorebirds. This weather-reinforced feature is a significant and integral part of all migratory bird species. Right now Lorain impoundment attracts shorebirds with mudflats and marsh that provide cover, food, and protection from the elements, predators and other migratory hazards. In addition to mudflats, the impoundment provides an abundance of seed producing plants and a stand of cottonwoods and willow. These elements are important too; not necessarily just for shorebirds but for a variety of bird species.
I always spend time surveying the cottonwoods and weed fields surrounding the impoundment, mindful that these habitats can and will harbor songbird migrants, raptors, waders and other birds. Since the end of July, I have watched the cottonwood stand and observed growing numbers of Yellow Warblers. Some of these warblers are in breeding plumage, some are females and many are juvenile birds. They are all ready to make the trip south.
Yellow Warblers remind us, with there early, almost mid-summer departure that the rest of the songbird migration will not be far behind. In fact, August is a great time to see migrating fall warblers in this region. It won't be long until the Yellow Warblers thin out and other warbler and songbirds will replace them. And yes the shorebird migration will also intensify as well.
Today, August 2nd was a day that is a case in point. As I rounded the impoundment I stopped at the cottonwood stand and surveyed the Warblers. I discovered, much to my surprise and delight, a Barn Owl, roosting on the edge of the cottonwoods. I thought at first it was a snag, but binoculars revealed it to be one of Ohio's rarest predators. While watching the woods and the Barn Owl, things were picking up behind us in cottonwoods out in the marsh.
Harriet Alger joined me to see the Barn Owl, a rare visitor to Lorain County and all northeast Ohio. When we started to leave Harriet inquired about what the heron was in the trees behind us. There were actually two heron species in view close to each other. There was not only one, but eventually, 4 Green Herons joining a lone immature Black-crowned Nightheron. All these birds are migrants. They are taking advantage of the impoundment on the first leg of their journey south.
Ohio's Barn Owls
The big story here is the migrating Barn Owl. This is the only owl that is found in temperate climates around the world. In North America they are in decline. In Ohio there are about 50 pair throughout Ohio. They were only common in Ohio in the 1930's when they were known to inhabit 84 of Ohio's 88 counties. This was a time when agriculture was at its peak and there were a lot of mice and voles associated with agricultural areas and farming practices. When farming became more mechanized and more efficient and fence rows less important, the Barn Owl populations declined as did plummeting mouse populations.
Today this species is restricted to breeding in 17 Ohio counties. The population is relatively stable but very dependent on nesting opportunities in outbuildings and barns and sufficient food supply. Lorain County is not on the list. So this Barn Owl is a rare migrant. This species is not a great wanderer like the shorebirds. The young birds usually disperse into areas not too far from where they are fledged. So this bird's origin and destination is a mystery, perhaps even to the bird.
Barn Owls are an endangered species in Ohio. It is rarely seen outside the counties in which they breed. I have seen them along Lake Erie sparingly over the last 40 years, but today's encounter was special at every level.
So there are two important lessons here. The first, is to bird the place you visit, not just focusing on any single target bird group like shorebirds. The second, is that the Barn Owl, the Green Herons, the immature Black-crowned Nightheron, Yellow Warblers, and the shorebirds are begging us to pay close attention as the fall migration is well underway and if we take advantage of this monumental migration event, the rewards will be incredible.
Lorain Impoundment, located in Lorain, Ohio is one of few habitats that will support shorebird migration in northern Ohio this year. It is situated adjacent to Lake Erie and is a wonderful opportunity for shorebirds to rest and feed along their epic journey to the places they will winter and prepare for the next trek to breed in the far northern hemisphere next spring.
The southern shore of Lake Erie is far more significant than just an attractive stopover for shorebirds. This weather-reinforced feature is a significant and integral part of all migratory bird species. Right now Lorain impoundment attracts shorebirds with mudflats and marsh that provide cover, food, and protection from the elements, predators and other migratory hazards. In addition to mudflats, the impoundment provides an abundance of seed producing plants and a stand of cottonwoods and willow. These elements are important too; not necessarily just for shorebirds but for a variety of bird species.
I always spend time surveying the cottonwoods and weed fields surrounding the impoundment, mindful that these habitats can and will harbor songbird migrants, raptors, waders and other birds. Since the end of July, I have watched the cottonwood stand and observed growing numbers of Yellow Warblers. Some of these warblers are in breeding plumage, some are females and many are juvenile birds. They are all ready to make the trip south.
Yellow Warblers remind us, with there early, almost mid-summer departure that the rest of the songbird migration will not be far behind. In fact, August is a great time to see migrating fall warblers in this region. It won't be long until the Yellow Warblers thin out and other warbler and songbirds will replace them. And yes the shorebird migration will also intensify as well.
Today, August 2nd was a day that is a case in point. As I rounded the impoundment I stopped at the cottonwood stand and surveyed the Warblers. I discovered, much to my surprise and delight, a Barn Owl, roosting on the edge of the cottonwoods. I thought at first it was a snag, but binoculars revealed it to be one of Ohio's rarest predators. While watching the woods and the Barn Owl, things were picking up behind us in cottonwoods out in the marsh.
Harriet Alger joined me to see the Barn Owl, a rare visitor to Lorain County and all northeast Ohio. When we started to leave Harriet inquired about what the heron was in the trees behind us. There were actually two heron species in view close to each other. There was not only one, but eventually, 4 Green Herons joining a lone immature Black-crowned Nightheron. All these birds are migrants. They are taking advantage of the impoundment on the first leg of their journey south.
Ohio's Barn Owls
The big story here is the migrating Barn Owl. This is the only owl that is found in temperate climates around the world. In North America they are in decline. In Ohio there are about 50 pair throughout Ohio. They were only common in Ohio in the 1930's when they were known to inhabit 84 of Ohio's 88 counties. This was a time when agriculture was at its peak and there were a lot of mice and voles associated with agricultural areas and farming practices. When farming became more mechanized and more efficient and fence rows less important, the Barn Owl populations declined as did plummeting mouse populations.
Today this species is restricted to breeding in 17 Ohio counties. The population is relatively stable but very dependent on nesting opportunities in outbuildings and barns and sufficient food supply. Lorain County is not on the list. So this Barn Owl is a rare migrant. This species is not a great wanderer like the shorebirds. The young birds usually disperse into areas not too far from where they are fledged. So this bird's origin and destination is a mystery, perhaps even to the bird.
Barn Owls are an endangered species in Ohio. It is rarely seen outside the counties in which they breed. I have seen them along Lake Erie sparingly over the last 40 years, but today's encounter was special at every level.
So there are two important lessons here. The first, is to bird the place you visit, not just focusing on any single target bird group like shorebirds. The second, is that the Barn Owl, the Green Herons, the immature Black-crowned Nightheron, Yellow Warblers, and the shorebirds are begging us to pay close attention as the fall migration is well underway and if we take advantage of this monumental migration event, the rewards will be incredible.
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